Monday 11 February 2013

Rain and strong winds during the night and the morning was grey and cloudy. Our plan today was to visit Gibraltar so, after breakfast, it started with a walk down to the health centre, about 1 mile, and take a bus into the centre of La Lineas. We have to say that the ride did nothing to change our initial impression of a town that had stopped looking after itself, scruffy is probably the kindest description. But at least it was only 80cents each for a 10 minute trip. The bus set us down in the central square which was only a few minutes’ walk to the frontier, again crowded with cars but pedestrian traffic was moving freely.

Our first stop was the tourist office (kiosk?) for a map and to learn that the cable car to the Top of the Rock was closed due to strong winds. This meant that the tour companies were doing a roaring trade and, after a discussion about how far we would actually be capable of walking, agreed to splash out on a guided tour by minibus. As a matter of interest this cost us 75 Euros, but we did get a brilliant driver/guide all to ourselves who, apart from being a fierce Gibraltarian, was a mine of information we wouldn’t have got by trying to do it ourselves. It also included the various entrance fees which would probably have cost us 40euros. It is quite possible to tour the Rock independently, but you would probably need at least 2/3 days and to remember that everywhere is either very up or down!

We’re not going deeply into the history on this blog; the Rough Guide to Spain has an excellent section on Gibraltar, or the Tourist Office website is a very good source of reference.

The Pillars of Hercules

The first stop, after a short drive through the town to view the old walls, was the Pillars of Hercules, at the Jewish Gate.

There are apparently 5 religions in Gibraltar; Catholic, Protestant, Muslim, Jewish and, would you believe Hindu, all living peacefully together in a population of 30,000. English is the main language, but the locals speak it with a Spanish-like accent, having descended, not from English ancestors, but from a number of nationalities who settled here 200 years ago when the English started to allow civilians rather than only military, which is what British history here is all about. Look it up.

St Michaels Cave

Then onto St Michaels Cave. This is a large natural cavern with spectacular formations of stalactites and stalagmites. 

For WW2 it was set up as a military hospital but, never used as such, it has now been converted to a concert venue – the shows must be awesome given the background.

Cuddly Monkeys!

From there Johnnie, our driver, took us up to meet the apes, tailless African Barbary Apes originally brought to Gibraltar as pets, but then let free to roam in the wild. The numbers are controlled now and they are fed daily so that they are no longer aggressive and do not stray down into the town. They are still opportunistic thieves, however, and you should hang on to your possessions and never feed them – 800 euro fine!

View from the top

Next was the Top of the Rock – we should point out that you cannot bring your own vehicle up here, it’s either an official tour minibus, the cable car or walk!  From here there are spectacular views over Gibraltar and the surrounding coastline, including of course North Africa. Unfortunately, because of the weather, our photos have not come out well – but we did get better views a few days ago.

Halt! Who Goes There?

The last official stop on the itinerary was the Great Siege Tunnels. Hewn out of the rock there are apparently 7kms, constructed to form part of the defences and turned into a formidable gun battery, looking out in all directions over the sea.

Overlooking the harbour

Further round

Johnnie then drove us back down to the town, briefly stopping to view the walls and the Moorish Tower, and the little effect the siege cannonballs had on its immensely strong walls. 

We were dropped at the southern end of Main Street, the pedestrianized main shopping area of Gibraltar Town. We strolled along, viewing all the British names, lunching in Burger King (and watching “Corrie” on their telly), spotting a British bobby and generally enjoying the afternoon sunshine ending up at The Casements, the main square. We caught a bus from here to the frontier (across the main airport runway!), walked through and, because feet had given out, indulged in a taxi back to the campsite.

We have been told that Gibraltar is a place you either love or hate. Not knowing what to expect, we would describe it as a slightly unusual tourist destination with its own special character. Of course it is also a strategic and economic base too which greatly colours the atmosphere. We like it and will no doubt come back. 

The Spanish are still trying to take it back but the Gibraltarians are strongly united – they are proud of being and will remain British!